Thanks for following along. It meant a lot to both of us to be able to share the experience. The loyal readership encouraged us to keep at the postings, despite many a distraction, and has resulted in producing the most tangible and cherished souvenir of our entire trip.

As a final nod, here are some pics that didn't make the blog along the way & a few that deserved a second round...we sure were privileged.

Last Stop- French Polynesia: Moorea

As those of you who have been checking up on this blog over the past 7 months well know, Christy and Dion have had it rough. We’ve endured long car rides across the vast US. We've searched for welcoming homes in towns we didn’t even know. We had to the adjust to the cultural peculiarities of a multi-faceted China, to find nourishment in wide assortment of $2 plates of Thai food, and to spend entire days where it seemed we were either walking up a New Zealand hillside or paddling a kayak only to end up where we started.

Yes, I’m sure you all sympathize with our plight and agree we well deserve a “paradise” stop on our way home. Conveniently we flew Air Tahiti home, which offers flexible lay-overs in French Polynesia on all Trans-Pacific flights. It made for an exceptional final acclimization for our return to the states.

Tahiti and Bora Bora, the two most recognized islands in French Polynesia are a just a sliver of the chain that is composed 5 major groups and a total of 118 islands spread across an ocean area the size of Europe. They are quite diverse, some with green mountains (the tallest over 6000 feet) and jagged interiors while other island are others are delicate rings of land a stone throw across that surround glass blue lagoons full of tropical fish. Many of the islands are surrounding by reefs where the surf breaks on the horizon, creating calm snorkle enclaves and the occasional over-the-water, swim from to your backdoor, bungalow near the shore.

We had 4 full days on the island of Moorea, a short boat ride from Tahiti. Diving was a top priority and made easy by the small dive shack located on the beach a 30 second walk from our bungalow. The diving is, not surprisingly, brilliant to world-class here. With the mid-Pacific location there is plenty of large marine life around, Humpbacks migrate July-October and a variety of sharks are common. We spotted black tip sharks swimming 50 feet below before we even left the surface on our dives. Throughout our first dive we watch several 8-10 foot sturdy Lemon Sharks circle the anchor line. Christy quickly went from apprehension to fascination with their presence.

We relaxed on the beach, scootered around the 60km island, ate a few kilos of raw fish- the deliciously seasoned Poisson Cru, reflected on the return home & our absolute privileged time for the past 7 months, then relaxed some more on the beach.

Sometimes you just have to accept there are days, weeks, and even months, when there just isn’t much more you can ask from life.

Christy stopping to appreciate the view during a walk along the beach & shallows

The windsurfers entertained throughout the day, this one taken from our bungalows resturant. Note one of many finish plates of Poisson Cru sits on the lunch table.

Christy reading, relaxing, watching..... and getting her stomach burnt.

Returning from a morning dive.

A bike ride into the mountainous interior of the island.

Views across Cook's Bay

A few underwater pics, we saw multiple turtles browsing in the coral.

Christy, don't look behind you now...

....Oh wait, based on the look in your eyes you already did.

With sharks all around you quickly realize they intend no harm, and are more interested in keeping their distance then you are.

Dion just loving it.

Some warm water snorkling a few hours before a flight to a cold winter in the Northeast US.

Arthurs Pass, Christchurch & Kaikora

With our time in New Zealand winding down and our great experience on the Kepler track still fresh in mind we both wanted to have at least one more day in the NZ mountains. Arthur’s Pass National Park is located in the Southern Alps equidistant from both coasts. Most of the trails that head out of the tiny Arthurs Pass village, especially the multi-day ones, require steep climbs and unbridged river crossings. We opted for Scotts Track, a single day hike to nearby Avalanche Peak, that would quickly bring us above the tree line and hopefully provide the alpine views we missed on the 2nd day of Kepler.

The route was less then 3 miles one way, but in that distance climbed over 3000 feet. Scampering along an exposed ridge for portions, it was not easy going but we were rewarded with rapidly expanding views and a summit perch lunchspot overlooking a glacier, surrounding valleys and the pass road far below.

Christchurch is the largest city in the southern island and one that many people highlight on their trips to New Zealand. We enjoyed walking the large city park and hanging out with a two friends we’ve run into in multiple locations on the circuit around the South Island but overall found it a city of no incredible note. Maybe it was simply that it was cloudy and rained.

Scott's trail on the way to Avalanche Peak.

Views from the peak.

Dion on the walk home, you can see the road where town is at the base of the valley.

The Cathedral in center square of Christchurch

Closing out our loop of the South Island and time in New Zealand, Kaikora was a highly anticipated stop for one reason: you swim with wild dolphins there. The seaside town, with its beachfront crawfish (that’s lobster in English) stands, ocean sculpted rock formations, and two swooping bays is comfortable place to spend a few days. The Dolphin swim merits a trip to New Zealand in itself.

Out on the water before sunrise we found a pod of around 150 Dusky dolphins, intermixed with a few common dolphins, who were returning from their nighttime feeding along the Kaikora canyon. The sea bed drops to 3000 feet just a kilometer off shore, funneling sub-tropical & Antarctic waters into a nutrient rich upwelling. This invites marine life in large numbers to the area, including sperm whales, orcas (which we didn’t see) and a few types of dolphins.

The early morning in Kiakora gives a window to interact with the dolphins without being too intrusive to their natural habits. Clad in thick wet suits we slipped off the back of the boat into waters filled with surfacing fins, and were surrounded by dolphins. Swimming only a foot or two away they would turn to look at you with one eye, and often if they found you entertaining with your outbursts of sounds, bubbles or dives, they would turn and- there is no better word for it- play with you. They swam in circles as long as you could maintain eye contact, which inevitably resulted in becoming dizzy. Sometimes, as you swam as fast you could in one direction, they would lazily follow, zig-zagging in front of you. At some point, they would bore of your near-drowning swimming level & slip off into the blue. These were Wild Dolphins- playing with us. Whatever high esteem you currently hold these incredible animals, it will be elevated immensely should you ever have the privilege to share the water with them.

The beautifully rugged Kaikora seafront

The playful Dusky Dolphins swimming alongside the boat and us sitting off the back of the boat between swims

Our route through New Zealand

The Catlins & Dunedin

Heading out of Milford Sound, we drove away from the mountains and toward a windblown beach and Celtic green bluffed coast. The “Southern Scenic Route”, at times the main highway wrapping the southern tip of the island, was a tight two laner and only sometimes paved. The Catlin Coast attracts New Zealand’s rare penguin and sea lion colonies as the surrounding seas merge into the sub Antarctic waters eventually (being the southernmost part of New Zealand). Christy was curious to see these wadlers for herself after hearing about Dion’s sightings in Antarctica last year and was quickly enamored with the knee high Yellow Eyed Penguins swimming ashore after feeding in the frigid waters. Unfortunately our photos do not do justice (and not posted) as our non-intrusive viewing perch for these particularly shy penguins was quite high up from the beach.

A two hour drive from where we stayed on the Catlin Coast (Owaka) is the city of Dunedin where we spent two leisure nights, January 25th and 26th. Dunedin- Gaelic for “Edinburgh”-the capital of Scotl and carries an old European feel with its Gothic restored Cathedrals blanketing corners. Our hotel cleverly named Hogwartz, from Harry Potter (JK Rowling wrote the novels in Scotland), was actually the Bishop’s home for 137 years and had many grand views of the majestic cathedral, St. Joseph’s, across the street. As we sought out wine in Marlborough, rice in China and curry in Thailand, we not surprisingly drank a lot of beer in Dunedin, in Scottish tradition. The Octagon: center circle of town lined with restaurants, bars and live outdoor music was a great place to spend a sunny Saturday, sharing pints with the locals and lads celebrating “Aussie Day”. Down the street from Hogwartz is Speight’s Brewing House which gives a fun and informative tour of the 130 year old brand- and makes an Old Dark and Apricot Harvest brews we wish were imported home…they’re not.

Driving the Southern Coastal Route around the base of the South Island. The wind was not blowing fierce this day but the trees permanently lean from a constant sea breeze.

This fur seal was a tad perturbed Dion stepped on his turf.

This photo gives a feel for the grassy, Southern coast- very different than the mountainous West Coast we drove a few days earlier.

Overlooking Nugget Point (named after these rock formations that resemble gold nuggets). We saw penguins at the neighboring bay after this walk- as the penguins emerge from the sea roughly 2-3 hours before dusk each night (ie. 7-8pm this season).

Sunset from our Backpackers B&B on the Scenic Reserve

St. Joseph's Cathedral in Dunedin and view from our loft at Hogwartz

Celebrating Aussie Day (the hat is rewarded to those tables that drink 5+ pints in the course of the day)Tasting at Speight's Brewery... the following day

Fiordland

Almost the entire Southwest corner of New Zealand's Southern island, 12,500 square kilometres, has been defined a national park. Despite that size, Fiordland, with its spongy rainforest, snowcapped peaks and hairline Fiords possess about as much scenic grandeur per area, as anywhere the country. This has brought deserved recognition; the UN has declared nearly the entire region a World Heritage Area, and it’s a stopping point for just about any tourist.

The accessible Milford Sound attracts a high concentration of those visitors. For many a boat ride along the misnamed Fiord (a Sound is formed by rivers while Fiords are carved by glaciers, often with dramatic benefits to future photographers) is worth the park visit alone. 400 foot Waterfalls that splash into the dark waters help build an appreciation for the magnificent scale of the mountains that surrounds you.

We set aside 5 days in the park, which is also an enclave to 3 of the 8 NZ Great Walks, 14 other Fiords, and a skyline full of mountains. Enthused by our day in Abel Tasman we kayaked the quiet islands of Lake Manapouri one afternoon and set off on the 3 day Kepler track in the remainder of our time.

Our first day on the track we walked through a beech forest along lake Te Anau before climbing 2500 feet to our 1st hut just above the tree line. When the weather is good the second day it is considered one of the most scenic in the park; it is almost all along an alpine trail with views from ridgelines & saddles. Counter to the trend of most our trip, we were unlucky with the weather that day. Cloud cover,wind and rain made it a wet 6 hour walk surrounded in white. The last day of the 33 mile route brought us down a valley of moss carpeted rainforest, along the shore of a second lake (Manapouri), the bank of a large river and finally over a swingbridge to the exit point. Even though we missed the touted 2nd day views of the tramp it was an impressible trip, especially for Christy, who the next afternoon was already pitching for another overnight hiking opportunity. You won’t hear Dion complain about that development.

Which way is up? Reflections on the road to Milford Sound

Dion asking for trouble over a glacier fed stream.

Just another Milford Sound Waterfall

Can you find the 120 foot boat with 90 foot masts?

Morning in Milford Sound

Bearded man & Christy ready for a few days on the trail

Views the first dayon the Kepler track

Christy keeping an eye on the inquistive Kea, New Zealands alpine Parrot.

Views the 2nd day

Hardened Sherpa Christy: asking if she can carry more & thinking this weather is the tropics compared to Rochester winters.

Back down into the Rainforest

Just a few miles left