With our time in New Zealand winding down and our great experience on the Kepler track still fresh in mind we both wanted to have at least one more day in the NZ mountains. Arthur’s Pass National Park is located in the Southern Alps equidistant from both coasts. Most of the trails that head out of the tiny Arthurs Pass village, especially the multi-day ones, require steep climbs and unbridged river crossings. We opted for Scotts Track, a single day hike to nearby Avalanche Peak, that would quickly bring us above the tree line and hopefully provide the alpine views we missed on the 2nd day of Kepler.
The route was less then 3 miles one way, but in that distance climbed over 3000 feet. Scampering along an exposed ridge for portions, it was not easy going but we were rewarded with rapidly expanding views and a summit perch lunchspot overlooking a glacier, surrounding valleys and the pass road far below.
Christchurch is the largest city in the southern island and one that many people highlight on their trips to New Zealand. We enjoyed walking the large city park and hanging out with a two friends we’ve run into in multiple locations on the circuit around the South Island but overall found it a city of no incredible note. Maybe it was simply that it was cloudy and rained.
The route was less then 3 miles one way, but in that distance climbed over 3000 feet. Scampering along an exposed ridge for portions, it was not easy going but we were rewarded with rapidly expanding views and a summit perch lunchspot overlooking a glacier, surrounding valleys and the pass road far below.
Christchurch is the largest city in the southern island and one that many people highlight on their trips to New Zealand. We enjoyed walking the large city park and hanging out with a two friends we’ve run into in multiple locations on the circuit around the South Island but overall found it a city of no incredible note. Maybe it was simply that it was cloudy and rained.
Scott's trail on the way to Avalanche Peak.
Views from the peak.
Dion on the walk home, you can see the road where town is at the base of the valley. 
The Cathedral in center square of Christchurch
Closing out our loop of the South Island and time in New Zealand, Kaikora was a highly anticipated stop for one reason: you swim with wild dolphins there. The seaside town, with its beachfront crawfish (that’s lobster in English) stands, ocean sculpted rock formations, and two swooping bays is comfortable place to spend a few days. The Dolphin swim merits a trip to New Zealand in itself.
Out on the water before sunrise we found a pod of around 150 Dusky dolphins, intermixed with a few common dolphins, who were returning from their nighttime feeding along the Kaikora canyon. The sea bed drops to 3000 feet just a kilometer off shore, funneling sub-tropical & Antarctic waters into a nutrient rich upwelling. This invites marine life in large numbers to the area, including sperm whales, orcas (which we didn’t see) and a few types of dolphins.
The early morning in Kiakora gives a window to interact with the dolphins without being too intrusive to their natural habits. Clad in thick wet suits we slipped off the back of the boat into waters filled with surfacing fins, and were surrounded by dolphins. Swimming only a foot or two away they would turn to look at you with one eye, and often if they found you entertaining with your outbursts of sounds, bubbles or dives, they would turn and- there is no better word for it- play with you. They swam in circles as long as you could maintain eye contact, which inevitably resulted in becoming dizzy. Sometimes, as you swam as fast you could in one direction, they would lazily follow, zig-zagging in front of you. At some point, they would bore of your near-drowning swimming level & slip off into the blue. These were Wild Dolphins- playing with us. Whatever high esteem you currently hold these incredible animals, it will be elevated immensely should you ever have the privilege to share the water with them.
Out on the water before sunrise we found a pod of around 150 Dusky dolphins, intermixed with a few common dolphins, who were returning from their nighttime feeding along the Kaikora canyon. The sea bed drops to 3000 feet just a kilometer off shore, funneling sub-tropical & Antarctic waters into a nutrient rich upwelling. This invites marine life in large numbers to the area, including sperm whales, orcas (which we didn’t see) and a few types of dolphins.
The early morning in Kiakora gives a window to interact with the dolphins without being too intrusive to their natural habits. Clad in thick wet suits we slipped off the back of the boat into waters filled with surfacing fins, and were surrounded by dolphins. Swimming only a foot or two away they would turn to look at you with one eye, and often if they found you entertaining with your outbursts of sounds, bubbles or dives, they would turn and- there is no better word for it- play with you. They swam in circles as long as you could maintain eye contact, which inevitably resulted in becoming dizzy. Sometimes, as you swam as fast you could in one direction, they would lazily follow, zig-zagging in front of you. At some point, they would bore of your near-drowning swimming level & slip off into the blue. These were Wild Dolphins- playing with us. Whatever high esteem you currently hold these incredible animals, it will be elevated immensely should you ever have the privilege to share the water with them.
The beautifully rugged Kaikora seafront
The playful Dusky Dolphins swimming alongside the boat and us sitting off the back of the boat between swims
Our route through New Zealand
1 comment:
D-I'm surprised you didn't swim off into the great blue abyss with your dolphin bretheren! Did they understand you when you tried to speak to them? I bet they did.
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